So, the snow has arrived in the UK and you're thinking of going up above the freeze line into the white wilds. So what kinds of things do you need to think about?
Below is a kit list, including non-essentials, plus some helpful tips I've learned along the way...
1. Boots. These boots will need to be B1 or pref B2/B3. This means they can take a crampon without flexing and the crampon flying off. A B1 boot will be one you can walk in easily and all year round if wanted. A B2 will be more stiff and take a better and semi-automatic crampon. B3 is really only needed for climbers though some people wear B3s anyway. As ever, fit is everything for a boot!
2. Crampons. Above the snow line and in ice, you'll need a minimum of something like Pogu /Kahtoola / Hillsound microspikes, or more likely crampons. Crampons will be essential in winter except in lots of powder / wet snow. When choosing a crampon it must match the boot and will come as C1, C2 or C3 etc. A C1 crampon will match a B1 boot, C2 a C2 boot etc. You cannot wear a crampon with a high rating than the boot (but you can go vice versa e.g. a boot with a higher rating than a crampon). Crampons come in various guises with most C1 crampons being for walking, glacier travel and easier steep-ish ground. These mostly have 10 points and are attached to your boot by stepping in and strapping around your foot. When getting onto steep slopes or 'front pointing' you'll need C2 crampons minimum. These and C3 crampons will have 12 points mostly and occasionally 14 points. They come in different fits such as a 'semi-automatic' binding (a bit like a ski boot). You will need to fit the crampon to the size of your boot.
Remember that when putting on crampons, you should find a flat area and stand into them, rather than sitting down to put them on. This means they don't roll away and that you step into them properly to keep them tight.
3. Baselayers. Of course, you should always be wearing baselayers with fabrics that dry quickly and move moisture away from your body. This includes your top and your underwear. Some people prefer merino wool baselayers as they stay warm when wet and tend not to pong as quickly. I've personally found them to not dry very quickly so don't like them. Have a long sleeve one where possible for winter.
4. Trousers ('pants'). You can wear your normal walking trousers. I'd suggest stretchy ones if you go this route - something like the Craghoppers Kiwi Stretch. When it is very cold, you can wear some leggings underneath (again make sure they're baselayer material). But I have found that this can make you get very hot, especially on a walk-in to a mountain. Therefore I tend to not wear them any more. If you have more conga then go for Softshell trousers which are far more resilient than walking trousers and designed for winter activities. These are often lined. They often cinch down tightly around the boot area to avoid getting caught on crampons.
5. Gaiters. These are pretty helpful in winter mostly, providing extra protection against crampon spikes and keeping your trousers tight to your legs. One thing to think about is to get mountaineering gaiters. You can pick up cheap gaiters that resemble an 'hour glass' shape but the important thing in winter is to keep everything tight to the leg.
6. Buff or neck scarf / possibly even a balaclava. One thing you will find in Winter especially with windy conditions is that your face will quickly start to go cold. Having something as simple as a buff or neck gaiter will go a long way to keeping your face from getting cold or even feeling hyperthermic. You can get specialist ones that contour to the shape of your face.
7. Hat. Having a good beanie hat helps a lot. You won't be wearing baseball caps etc or even mountain hats as at times you'll need to consider wearing a helmet, so your headwear needs to be able to fit under a helmet. Always carry a spare beanie and remember that while you lose a percentage of heat through your head, it's not as much as people often make out. So a thinner and a thicker one is a good combo.
8. Gloves. Ah, gloves... As Andy Kirkpatrick has said, the problem with gloves is that they will eventually get wet. Scottish winter conditions are not what you'd find in the Colorado Rockies (where things are much drier). Waterproof gloves are great in the right time and place. But cold, raining, wet windy snowy days in the UK are not generally the place for waterproof gloves, esp where they don't go under the cuffs of your waterproof. So people adopt a variety of solutions... Some people walk in to the mountains in one set of gloves, then climb in another and then change to another on the way out. They may add a waterproof over mitt (Tuff Bags usually) to the mix and have an additional synthetic insulation spare pair of mitts in the bag. One thing I would recommend is having at least one pair of gloves that stays warm even when wet e.g. ME Randonee (expensive). This will be essential in UK winters. Then you will need to take two pairs of 'liner' gloves (thin ones under your main gloves). Then have a spare pair. So I'd recommend taking 2-4 pairs of gloves, certainly in bad conditions or doing any scrambling with an ice axe etc (with rain and snow getting into your gloves). In dry conditions, one pair may be fine but always have one spare pair. Remember that if you're using an ice axe, you'll need to have a pair of gloves or mitts that allow you to comfortably use the ice axe. And in cold conditions, liner gloves are essential - you may take off your mitt to put on crampons but need a glove on with dexterity underneath.
9. You Core / Layers. It's all about the layers when it comes to think about what to wear on your body. Fleeces, while good and very breathable take a long time to dry so I'd avoid fleece in winter. Instead, use softshell clothing when it's not raining (these breathe much more than waterproofs ever will) so you won't get as sweaty. Sometimes, the sweat you generate is as almost as much as the rain that comes in to your clothing! So when you start out on a walk-in, start cold. This means wear less than feels nice as you will soon warm up! So if it's warm I'd wear a baselayer and a softshell. If it's raining I'd probably just wear a baselayer and a waterproof at times.
But - you must take extra layers with you. If you're in Colorado then you can take a down jacket which will excel when you stop in cold and dry temperatures. But if walking in the UK then down is pretty useless as it loses all its insulation when wet! So go for synthetic insulation which retains most of its insulating properties when wet, dries quickly and is fairly breathable. Suggestions here are stuff with Primaloft (or similar), remembering there are different levels of fill of insulation. Or something like the Paramo range which are bulky (very resilient) and can be thrown on top of wet waterproofs even. I would consider having one very packable synthetic jacket and another thinner layer / gilet as well. At the time of writing, the best and most breathable insulation is Polartec Alpha.
10. Waterproof jacket / waterproof trousers. Both will be essential! OK so waterproof jackets... There are many types and many claims made with advertising. There are three main players in the waterproof arena - Gore Tex, Event and Polartec Neoshell. All have their strengths but in a Scottish hoolie and clag-filled day, all will eventually wet out because the moisture has nowhere to escape. Gore Tex have different levels of breathability (for a price) with Gore Tex being a basic, Gore Tex Active being better and the 2013 Gore Tex Pro being the best. Event is the same throughout but look for 3 layer Event tops. Polartec Neoshell is the new player on the block with breathability meant to excel anything else but perhaps at the price of some durability.
So what do you need? Depending on what you're doing, think about the 'cut' of the jacket. Do you want it 'athletic / active' cut, or a bit longer? Are you just plodding across Dartmoor or will you be scrambling over rocks? Will you need it to be harness-compatible? (Eg shorter cut and pockets higher up the jacket meaning you can open them with a harness on). Will you be wearing a helmet underneath, meaning it needs to be helmet-compatible? Do you want an inside pocket? Do you want a pocket big enough to put an OS map inside or big enough to put a map case in with a map inside? Are the pockets waterproof or simply water resistant? Do you need a storm flap? Will the jacket need to be very tough - e.g. for use in Scotland or in the Cullins for example? Does the hood have enough 'cinch points' meaning that it stays tight to your head in the wind? Does it come with a stiffened peak meaning visibility is good when moving the head left and right? Ultimately money spent on the right waterproof jacket is essential. Some waterproofs have extra venting options to keep the sweat at bay - e.g. underarm pit zips.
When it comes to waterproof overtrousers, the same kinds of questions exist. People tend to get slightly cheaper ('own-made') waterproof trousers, but again breathability is an issue so look for breathable ones (not the pac-a-mac versions) so you don't sweat. And look for ones you can quickly get on over your trousers without removing boots and ones that have venting options.
11. Rucsack. In winter you will be carrying more gear, so a bigger rucksack is often advised - up to 40-45 litres usually. Depending on your needs (ice climbing ice axes / ropes / ski carrying), you may also need other specific features. Generally your pack won't be waterproof (with all that rain / snow you want the moisture to be able to drain out) so most people go with a pack and store valuable items such as extra layers etc in dry bags. Pay to get good reliable dry bags e.g. Exped etc. If you're climbing or even scrambling, get a rucksack that clings tightly to your back without extraneous bits hanging off e.g. webbing / outer pockets etc. This could stop you getting caught on something.
Think about the 'back system' e.g. I hate bags that don't touch your back as you feel like the bag swings around. But this comes at the price of a slightly more sweaty back (which will happen!) Some backs of packs shed the snow well so this is worth thinking about. Other packs are incredibly durable (e.g. Deuter Guide packs). Others sacrifice some durability for a lighter pack. Some come with a snow skirt / detachable lid / crampon carry / rope carry / ski carry / carabiner carry etc. So think about what you'll need. My preference is a single inner compartment with top entry. Think about undoing buckles etc in the cold with gloves on - can you do it. And think about the fit of the pack so it suits you and your back (last thing you want is shoulders in agony!)
I always pack my bag in exactly the same way. This means you know where stuff is without having to always search. Some people organise stuff via dry bags. This is essential when you're shivering and need another layer / glove / drink quickly.
12. Ice Axe. Choose an ice axe that's 55-60cm long if you're average height e.g. 5"5 to 6". My ice axe is slightly curved. Remember to always carry in uphill hand and with adze forward as a matter of habit.
13. Socks. Get a decent pair of socks like Bridgedale - merino wool or wool fusion is good to keep your feet warm if wet. Consider winter socks which are thicker and warmer. Some people take a spare pair of socks out with them (and even use them as a spare pair of gloves!)
14. Extra tips...
First of all remember to always stash your kit somewhere safe (e.g. in the pack) when not using them as they will fly off.
Second, carry spares of compass and map (even a scanned copy in a dry bag or photograph the map with your phone). Or use a GPS.
Third, in Winter store your drinks bottle upside down to avoid the 'top part' freezing, meaning you can drink when you need to. Make sure the bottle is easy to access in your pack.
Fourth, drink more often than you think you should. This will stave off dehydration which is a real issue in Winter.
Fifth, take a flask with a hot drink in. Some take tea. Some take various concoctions of fruit drinks / hot orange squash etc. Essential.
Six, take lots of food. You can wrap it in a spare layer to keep it from freezing. Think about taking food that doesn't freeze or break your teeth! Carry some rations on your person to be on hand, which also helps them not freeze (but not chocolate that may melt!)
Seven, remember that when you're cold, wet, hungry you make bad decisions so keep on top of eating and drinking.
Eight, carry your map in a map case attached to you even with waterproof ones. The thaw in Scottish spring and summer reveals countless maps that have blown away, usually waterproof ones. Always thumb the map to keep track of where you are, in case of whiteout etc.
Nine, plan your route in advance and make sure every member of the group knows about it / has a copy. Do you need to think about easy escape routes in bad conditions?
Ten, carry things like lip balm and a few essentials that may help you personally (plus whistle / tape etc for repairs). If out for a long time, take more essential spares e.g. crampon repair kit.
Eleven, you may want to take a helmet with you when scrambling ridges. Some people do, some people don't. Ultimately it's up to you.
Twelve, always carry one of a survival bag / bothy bag / blizzard bag in case of emergency.
Phew! That's about it for now. Happy wintering !!
